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T-Shirt Template

Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-15-2005 00:16
Hi! A week or so ago, when I was still very sick, there was a thread on this board in which it was mentioned that making t-shirts for SL isn't like just dropping an image onto a shirt in Cafe Press, and I thought that maybe it should be. After all, not everyone wants to be a designer.

Some people just want to make a funny t-shirt!

Someone agreed that they'd like to see that, so, since I'm feeling better, I took a bit of time out tonight, and made one.

It looks like this, when it's colored and has a design on it.



You can get the layered Photoshop file by clicking here. (It will start to download right away, so be warned.)

There are instructions in that zip file, but it should be pretty clear if you have been reading these forums at all. The Alpha channel is already made, of course, so really it's just a matter of dropping your design on, or putting type on it, and uploading the finished shirt.

Have fun with it!
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Margeaux Mirabeau
VERTASUAL
Join date: 21 Sep 2005
Posts: 141
12-15-2005 07:40
Robin, I have never met you ( yet ) but I have to tell you I love you !

That template works like a charm... I had already accepted I could only texture and not make tees, but with your template I can apply my own textures to tees.... :D

Thank you !

Margeaux
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"I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain." ( From Dune by Frank Herbert ).
Miele Pavlova
Registered User
Join date: 13 Jul 2005
Posts: 1
12-15-2005 15:04
Thank you, Robin!


Your other templates helped me to do my first skin, and this one is just as awesome. :)
Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-18-2005 11:19
Thanks, Margeaux and Miele! You are most welcome.

I had thought that there would be more interest in this, but I guess not. :D

Ah well! I suppose most people would rather make things from scratch than use a design that someone else has made.
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Torley Linden
Enlightenment!
Join date: 15 Sep 2004
Posts: 16,530
12-18-2005 11:22
From: Robin Sojourner

I had thought that there would be more interest in this, but I guess not. :D


I am getting the distinct impression many who want something like this have simply not been made aware of it yet. You've filled a void. Now I'm aware, so thanxies for doing this work! Your tutorials are so helpful and elegantly put together. :)
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Ilianexsi Sojourner
Chick with Horns
Join date: 11 Jul 2004
Posts: 1,707
12-18-2005 13:43
Awesome- downloaded it and can't wait to play with it. I appreciate premade things like this, since I don't have a graphics pad yet and can only do so much with a mouse. Thanks, Robin!
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Bertha Horton
Fat w/ Ice Cream
Join date: 19 Sep 2005
Posts: 835
12-18-2005 17:18
Awww, and I already just made a few new Ts with the already existing template, and they're awful. Guess I have to start over... :)
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Candide LeMay
Registered User
Join date: 30 Dec 2004
Posts: 538
12-19-2005 06:59
Robin, this is most excellent! I'm a total photoshop antitalent, but I've managed to make my own t-shirt in few minutes with your template. Thanks!
Bobby Dayton
Test Pilot for Airfix
Join date: 15 Nov 2003
Posts: 206
12-19-2005 07:43
The T shirt template is very much appreciated Robin. I was amazed to see the detailed creases near the waistband. I would love to know how you created them.
Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-19-2005 12:50
Thanks, everyone! I'm glad that people are finding it useful.

Bobby, I made the creases by changing the foreground color to Black, and painting long, feathered strokes on a transparent layer over a white ground. The strokes are dense and narrow at the waist, and feathered out to become wide and transparent over the chest. I work in black because it's easier for me to see a small percentage of black on a white ground than a small percentage of white on a black ground. Sigh. I can't do this without pictures. Please forgive me. Like this.



When it's done, I choose both layers (I'm in CS2, so I can do that,) Right Click, and choose "Duplicate Layers." When the dialog comes up, I duplicate them to a New document. Then I add an Adjustment layer, set to Invert, so I have white streaks on a black ground, to use as a bump map. (White is high, and black low.) I save it with a name like, "T-Shirt Displacement," and Copy Merged, so I have that on the clipboard for a few steps down the line. (Before I had CS2, I hid the other layers and did a Copy Merge to make the new document. I use the Adjustment layer so I can tweak with a minimum of fuss.)

Then, back in the T-shirt document, I make a duplicate of the texture layer, and choose Filter > Distort > Displace, a value of 2 or 3, and browse to the Displacement map. The texture is displaced along the bump map. It winds up something like this. (I'm using a checkerboard, to make it more obvious.)



Next, I create a New layer, holding down the Option key while I click on the New Layer icon so that the Dialog comes up. I choose "Overlay" as the Blending Mode in the dialog, and click to enable "Fill with Overlay-Neutral color (50% gray.)"

Then I move to the Channels Palette, and paste the merged displacement from step 2 as a temporary second Alpha channel. I'll have to delete it later, but I need it now.

Back in the Layers palette, I select the Overlay layer, and go to Filter > Render > Lighting Effects. I choose a single spotlight, set from the upper left, and use the Alpha 2 as the Texture Channel. This gives me automatic shading for the wrinkles I made. Something like this.



Then all I have to do is paint 50% gray on the discontinuous edges of the Map pieces in the Overlay channel, so they will be the same value where they join.

If necessary (and it's not always; it depends on the "fabric",) I also add a shadow layer, and perhaps another highlight layer, following the shadows and highlights on the Overlay. (You can set it to Normal blending mode, if you are having a hard time seeing them.)



Remove the extra Alpha channel, and that's it!

A couple of caveats and notes here; you might want to rotate the canvas to do the shadows on the arms; it depends on how many you have. Rotate it back when you're done, of course. But that will give you two Overlay layers; just mask the area you don't want in each of them.

Also, when I use Shadow layers, I use two of them; one with Black shadows, and one with shadows that are the predominant color in the fabric. (Both set to Multiply, of course.) That gives a little color in the shadows, and makes them look much more realistic.

Anyway, that's how I do it! Hope there aren't too many pictures, and that you find this helpful. I'll put it up as a tutorial on my site when I get the chance, with even more pictures, so you can really see what's going on. :D
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Kya Eliot
Escape Designer
Join date: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 250
12-19-2005 13:20
Had to post and put my own thank you in to Robin - I have been using your templates to make my clothing for a while now, I don't think I could have managed without them! I have to say that you have been extremely helpful when it comes to learning the techniques needed to make realistic (and perfectly lined up!) clothes - information that is actually quite hard to find.

And now I have to send you a big hug for the making wrinkles information! This is great. I have used a couple of other techniques such as using gradients, soft light, and transforming the perspective but I have a limited number of creases I can draw like that. I can't wait to try out your technique - it sounds like it will be perfect for someone like me. So again, thank you!!
Torley Linden
Enlightenment!
Join date: 15 Sep 2004
Posts: 16,530
12-19-2005 13:27
This thread about threads is rockin'-and-rollin' now!

Robin, is this gonna go on your fab website too? I could imagine something like a consolidated PDF being wonderfulicious too. I've gained some insights into shirtmaking!

What a neat technique for getting wrinkles without taking a photo.
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Adrian Hauptmann
Registered User
Join date: 1 Dec 2005
Posts: 7
12-19-2005 16:04
May I ask what resolution your textures are for these shirts. I have been using 1024x1024, and the files are 4 meg tga's and take forever to rez. Is there a smaller size that will render faster, or are we locked in at 1024x1024?

Thank you!
Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-19-2005 16:17
Hi! Thanks, Kya and Torley!

Kya, there are a million ways to make folds and wrinkles. This is just one of them. But I hope the expriments turn out well! :D

Torley, yes, this is going to go on my site as a regular tutorial as soon as I get a chance to put it there. The thing is, my Day Job has gotten a bit busy, so it might be a few weeks before I get that chance.

Adrian, I work at 1024x1024, except when I'm working on a really critical match, when I've been know to briefly move to 2048x2048. But before I upload the textures I always shrink them to 512x512, and Flatten, Sharpen, and Save a Copy as the 32 bit .tga file. (Making sure to keep the large layered files for tweaking or using with other fabric.)

Using the 1024 32 bit texture in SL makes the load time way too long, not just for the initial upload, but also for rezzing each time a new person looks at the clothing. It's just not worth it.

The only time I recall using a 1024x1024 texture is for the floor of the Texture Tutorial (which is a highly detailed 10mx10m cylinder.) And that one is 24 bit, of course, since it has no transparency.

Generally speaking, 512x512 is plenty for clothing; and a whole lot of prim textures can afford to be even smaller. Most of the textures I use are 256x256, or even 128x128 if it's something that is for a very small prim, or that is going to be tiled. Remember, the smaller, the faster; and people don't want to wait around for things to rez.

Hope this helps!
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Persephone Phoenix
loving laptopvideo2go.com
Join date: 5 Nov 2004
Posts: 1,012
Very well explained
12-19-2005 18:00
You're a natural teacher, Robin. :-) I wish I had seen this before making my own t-shirt template: yours looks a bit cleaner, and great job on the wrinkles. Thanks for the awesome resources.
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Daz Honey
Fine, Fine Artist
Join date: 27 Jun 2005
Posts: 599
12-20-2005 09:25
thank you, this has been the best thread I have read in a long time on these forums...
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Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-20-2005 12:54
Thanks, Persephone and Daz! I'm glad that you found it useful.
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Sezmra Svarog
Pointy-Eared Geek
Join date: 8 Jul 2004
Posts: 446
12-20-2005 14:04
I have to say this is a tremendously helpful thread. Thank you for taking the time to share this, Miss Wood!
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Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-20-2005 18:01
Thanks, Sezmra! I'm glad that you are enjoying it.
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Ceera Murakami
Texture Artist / Builder
Join date: 9 Sep 2005
Posts: 7,750
12-20-2005 18:19
This looks fantastic! I just downloaded it, and am looking forward to playing with it.

I especially appreciated the mini-tutorial on how to add draping and wrinkles to the shirt texture. Fantastic info!
Bobby Dayton
Test Pilot for Airfix
Join date: 15 Nov 2003
Posts: 206
12-21-2005 00:20
Thankyou for the lesson on how to make the creases Robin. I seem to learn something new with Photoshop every day. Ihad always stayed shy of using the pen tool and favoured the usual selection tools till I read your tutorial. But the pen tool is much more versatile and makes a lot more sense.

Can you tell me why you supply both the Mac and the PC versions of both the Tshirt and the avatar templates. I was under the impression a file saved on a PC in Photoshop could be used on a Mac. I ask because I use a Powerbook12 as a laptop.
stpaulsub Clio
Fear the Bubblegum Gurl!
Join date: 2 Sep 2004
Posts: 607
12-21-2005 01:38
YAY!!!!
omg you soo Rock!
thank you thank you thank you!
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Niamh Flanders
Registered User
Join date: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 35
12-21-2005 06:40
Wow Robin. As always your posts are wonderful and much appreciated. Thank you!
Rick Deckard
Cogito, ergo doleo.
Join date: 1 Apr 2005
Posts: 159
12-21-2005 13:09
Thank you Robin for that little folds tutorial. I already had the basic ideas down, but you put them together very nicely. Also thank you for the other tutorials that you provide in your website. (I'm afraid I may have used a disproportionate amount of your bandwidth going back again and again and replaying the videos because I forgot a detail or two--hehe). Anyway, a couple of things:
From: Robin Sojourner
Then all I have to do is paint 50% gray on the discontinuous edges of the Map pieces in the Overlay channel, so they will be the same value where they join.
This part I could not follow.

Also, you posted 3 pics of the checkered fabric. The second one was slightly whitened out because of the use of the Lighting Effects filter. But the third one appears to be "normal" again, without that white "mask." How was this done? Does it have to do with the part mentioned above that I could not follow? Thank you again :)
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Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
12-21-2005 15:43
Thanks, everyone! Glad it's helping.

Ummm.... Bobby, I don't supply Mac and PC versions, because you are right, the files will open on either platform. I do supply CS2 and non-CS2 versions of the templates, because CS2 has "Smart Objects," and earlier versions of Photoshop, and other programs that will open layered PS files, don't. But that's all. Ummm... why did you think I had separate files for the two platforms? I'm curious.

Rick, yes, the blown-out portions of the texture have been fixed during the step you didn't understand. :D

Basically, if you just leave the Overlay layer as it's made, the seams will be more obvious than you probably want them, because of the difference in lighting. So you'll probably want to fix that.

The way to do that is to paint with 50% gray on the Overlay layer. Remember, it's Overlay, which means that 50% gray will not show, lighter tones will show as if the layer was set to Screen, and darker tones will be Multiplied with the layers below.

So, take your paintbrush, set to a wide, soft stroke, and run it over the discontinuous edges of the map (the places where the polys meet on the avatar, but not on the map.) You can do this with the layer still set to Overlay, or you can temporarily set the Blending Mode to Normal, so you can see exactly what you are painting.

If you do that, it will look like this.



Just paint those edges, and any other portions that have gotten too light (or too dark,) smooth out any rough spots with the Blend tool, and so on to make that layer look the way you want it.

You can also reduce the Opacity of that layer, if the contrast is too extreme, or flatten the contrast using Levels or Brightness/Contrast, or do anything else you want. It's your image, and the important thing is to make the wrinkles present enough that people can see them, but subtle enough that it doesn't shout "hand drawn."

Does that help?
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Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
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