Applying a pattern across a 3D model

I've been trying to solve a texturing problem that's been driving me crazy. I'm trying to create a realistic looking set of mesh stockings with a disinctive pattern, but no matter what I try, I can't get the seams to line up properly on the side of the legs.

I tried using the pattern stamp on the 3d avatar in Photoshop CS4, but I'm unable to apply it across the entire model. This is probably by design since the pattern would vary as the angle of the model changes. The 2d world doesn't work very well either though, since the varying width of the legs spread across distinctive zones (i.e., front left, front right, etc) make it impossible to align without unaligning another section.

Is there a clever method to work-a-around this issue or is the only alternative to draw everything manuall? I've pretty much resigned myself to the later, but If anyone has any suggestions, I would be most appreciative. My apologies in advance if this has been covered in another thread.

Hiya Beowulf, what I've found with mesh stockings is that there just isn't any way to get the lines to be perfect at the seam. Sure, you can hand draw it in AvPainter or other 3D editor/viewer but that may take a while...lol. I'm sure you've done this already, but I just create a solid color seam layer so that you really can't tell that the sides don't mesh up. But, to answer your question, I don't think there is any clever way to do it other than hand-drawing it yourself.

You know, most patterns on real life shirts and such don't actually meet up at the seams quite correctly. As a matter of fact, I'm wearing a very expensive hoodie right now that I bought at the Buckle, and the seams don't even line up on it!
Stockings are different yes, but I would take the above advice and just create a solid seam to cover that the patterns don't match up.

Hello, I'm really really new to making clothing in SL. I've mostly just been doing t-shirts and trying out different things and such. I am having a similar problem though I can't get my patterns lined up correctly. Could someone eplain a way for me to fix this? In very simple terms since I must stress that this is quite new to me. I'm using a t-shirt template I purchased in world, and editing in PS CS4, which I am mildly proficient in. Any helps, hints, or advice would be appreciated. thanks in advance

Check the sticky threads at the top of this Texturing Forum.
In particular the CMFF Master Templates. The others are must read as well. That's why they sticky.
Have fun

I gotta say it, otherwise I'm gonna bust.

I'm yer huckleberry.

I've been able to do this for quite awhile with Mutli-CH. I've made some stocking-n-sock MCH files and wrapping a pattern is one of them. However, I still have a few things to do before I release the MCH files.

Some links in case you haven't heard:

http://tech-slop.serveit.org/wiki/index.php?title=Multi_Chan_Hax_Head

http://tech-slop.serveit.org/wiki/index.php?title=Multi_Chan_Hax

http://tech-slop.serveit.org/wiki/index.php?title=Multi_CH_Repository

Yeah, that kind of stuff for stockings-n-socks once I get a few more things around.

I've been running a lot of things through my head.

Giving things away like this for free is a big part of the kind of person that I am. My filters, resources, and tutorials have always been free. However, my RL has changed dramatically and I do need to make the $$. I'm still not sure how to deal with this. I love giving such things away for free, but I need the $$. This is, without a doubt, one of the bigger conundrums that I have faced.

But Abu the Multi-Talented Pimp is delivering this time.

Look for this in the MCH Repository:

SL_legpatternwrapfull01_c2.rar

The ratio is 1:2, so listen up.

- start a new document using 512x1024
- fill it with your pattern (Edit > Fill > Pattern)
- Image > Image Size and use 512x512 (might have to turn off Constrain Props)
- Filter > Tech Slop 3D > Multi Chan Hax v1b
- load up SL_legpatternwrapfull01_c2.mch and follow your nose

I did make some stockings for myself using two different patterns. Giving what things are with the avatar mesh, they turned out much better than I expected. One of my patterns did need some post pixel painting, but really not much at all. The other pattern of mine turned out dandy 'as is'.

The only thing that I can't really do anything about is the ankle stretch. Maybe keep this part of the ankle solid or something.

If you find this super awesome, feel free to send some L$ my way. Definitely more than appreciated and will keep me giving away all sorts of goodness. Or buy something from me. Maybe keep your eyes open for when I put my patterned stockings on sale and buy them.

Give me a few more days and I'll toss up some snaps of what I've done with this particular MCH file.

I just took this for a 10 minute test drive to see what it can do. As with all the other MCH files, I gotta say... Dude, you ROCK!!! The proportions of the pattern across the mesh is awesome!

The upper to lower foot section is what has impressed me most. It's an area of the mesh often overlooked when creating stuff, and often picked apart when reviewed. It took me a few minutes of close inspection in-world to figure out where the seam was.
The ankle smearing is going to happen no matter what. It's a bit like the dreaded crotch bleed. In any case, it's greatly reduced with this nifty lil' filter.

One suggestion for anyone else taking this for a spin is to extend the bleed area a touch once you're done, even if it's only by a couple of pixels. The filter tends to cut it off exactly where the mesh ends which can leave some skin peaking through when you zoom out in-world. If you extend the bleed area that won't be an issue.

I'm attaching a pic of what my test drive looked like. The one on the left is a basic pattern fill, the one on the right followed Abu's previous instructions. These are raw results, no post-painting or finishing touches.

http://i46.tinypic.com/2n0ttnm.jpg

I sent some love your way, Abu. Definitely a tool I'll use again.

Claire, you rock!

Here is the first one that I did:

http://tech-slop.serveit.org/wiki/images/mymeshsample01.jpg

There were two tiny little spots that I had to go over with a 1px brush real quick. Given the nature of the pattern, hard lines, it turned out much better than I expected.

I've just been looking at your head example and wondering if this might spark an idea or two

One of the tricks I've been meaning to try with Blender (which also supports multiple UV Layers) is using a normal map to produce a stencil for the alpha blend between side and front views.

I have played with that idea before, Domino. It actually provides a damn good running start in most cases. However, it's a technique I've never really bothered with much. I always end up tweaking masks with hand painting anwways, so that's what I usually stick with from the beginning.

I loaded up my Camille head working docs and did a normal map mask. The N portion of TBN is regular world normals and RGB Theta is just the ticket. Things I've provided in case you feel the need to fiddle in a 2d prog before getting crazy with code.

Peep this:

http://tech-slop.serveit.org/wiki/images/camillenormalmask01.jpg

That is straight-up and really is a damn good running start. Go ahead and grab that and check it out in SLCP or beta grid or something.

If you do decide to pursue, I will be paying attention.

edit:

I had no idea that Blender supports multiple mapping channels. If you ever consider doing an MCH exporter for Blender, I'm more than willing to offer any help that I can. You know, questions regarding how the Max Script works or something. I'm fairly certain that there are a lot more Blender users than Max users in these parts.

I'm sure I will at some point. I don't use Photoshop though, so it's unlikely I'll do anything for exporting MCH. It's more likely I'll just do some tutorials on using the Blender features to do the job. There's not the same cost barrier as with Max.

I vaguely remember setting up a sculptie rock and using a normal map stencil to control the moss growing on it.. /me wanders off..

Found it.. Here's the nodes:

For blending projection maps, I'd probably have a gradient control between the Normal and Multiply nodes. That'd allow fine control over the blend zone between the two projections.