It is always wise to create shadows/wrinkles/folds on separate layers instead of making permanent changes to fabric layers in your design. That way, you can always turn the wrinkles off or modify them without messing up you basic design.
When you are designing with layers, the birthday cake rule always applies: Upper layers always cover the lower ones. If you want something that you draw on a layer to be visible, it has to be above anything else, so that you can see it when you look down from the top of the stack of layers. So, a shadow/wrinkle/fold layer has to be above whatever the shadows/wrinkles/folds are meant to modify.
There are many templates and special tools for making folds, wrinkles, and shading, but I find that most of them look fake when you apply them to your own work. It's better to learn how to draw them yourself, so that they match the specific contours you are trying to simulate. This is potentially
very hard stuff to learn. Artists often spend many years with a sketch pad, watching the way light interacts with different materials and learning to make realistic effects on paper. It's no different with a graphics tablet and pen. Still, there are technical methods that should be in your personal toolbox -- sort of like learning how to hold a pencil when you are in an art class.
One basic technique for drawing folds in fabric is to create a new layer above your fabric layer and fill it with 50% gray. Why 50% gray? Because if you set the layer's mode to Multiply or Overlay, the layer will totally disappear, but you will be able to "draw" on it with your Dodge and Burn tools. That action simply adds or subtracts darkness to whatever is visible in layers below. Use a soft brush, a very low flow rate, and be gentle. It's wiser to make folds by "painting" successive overlapping strokes with Dodge or Burn than to try doing everything at once. Practice a
lot.
If you check out the Photoshop Tricks and Tips sticky thread and the Tutorial thread at the top of this forum, you will find more detailed discussions of how to make specific folds and wrinkles, but my short note here should give you a start. Don't be put off by the fact that many tutorials are written for Photoshop users. They will apply to any program that uses layers, including GIMP.
Good luck and welcome to clothing design.
