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Question about Flaming Pear plug-in

Erika DeVinna
Fresh To Death
Join date: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 25
11-11-2007 13:02
So Im trying to rid myself of the dreaded white halos but, I dont understand how this works.
I tried the one button thing but still have the same problem as if I do it manually. Useing PS CS btw.

My problem is that after useing plugin basically my transparent area is covered. So when I write to tga my alpha layer is still there but you dont see the transparency area just the effect of the plugin.

So in the normal area that the alpha layer will make transparent all Im seeing is the plug-in effect. Alpha layer is working correctly as you see the plug-in right through it.

Im having trouble comprehending how this is done since it appears to be working correctly but if the plugin covers the transparency area what am I missing here?


Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
Viktoria Dovgal
Join date: 29 Jul 2007
Posts: 3,593
11-11-2007 13:15
For Flaming Pear, are you talking about their Solidify filters? They are working correctly if you see all your transparency go away. That's okay, because the alpha layer (in the channels tab) you created beforehand contains a copy of all the transparency information you need to build your Targa file, even if Photoshop hides that detail while you are working.

You do want to duplicate and hide away your artwork before using that filter, so you have something to work with should you need to go back in and make changes.
Erika DeVinna
Fresh To Death
Join date: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 25
11-11-2007 13:25
Yeah Im using solidify B. For some reason though when I save as targa all I no longer have transparency even with alpha.

Im only having this problem when using the plug-in otherwise my alpha layers always work fine, except for the white halos.

I must be doing something wrong somehow, but I have no idea. If I just save my image normally without plug-in alpha layer works fine. Im confused.

ty :)
Viktoria Dovgal
Join date: 29 Jul 2007
Posts: 3,593
11-11-2007 13:54
OK, is this when you preview the TGA file in Photoshop again? That again is normal, it likes to show the layers without the alpha channel applied. That effect gets hidden when you create the alpha channel as the last step, because in that case you are duplicating the transparency that was there beforehand. If you double-click on the alpha channel in the palette, you can change the color and opacity of the mask (try black or white at 100%), so that you can get a better idea of what effect it will have.

The easiest way to check your work might be to preview your TGA files in an outside program. On Mac, either Preview or GraphicConverter work fine for this. I rarely play in Windows any more, but i think that IrfanView would show you what you need to see.
Erika DeVinna
Fresh To Death
Join date: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 25
11-11-2007 14:12
ahhh ok, maybe thats my problem, Im useing another program ACDSee to view tga before I upload to SL. Maybe I just need to upload or preview first in SL then Ill see transparency again. Ill have to check as soon as I get back to pc.

Thanks a bunch :) very much appreciated!
Dakota Schwade
Forty Two
Join date: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 10
Flaming Pear & Tattoo Problem
01-10-2008 17:59
Hello SLers!

Suffering from white halo? I sure am! :(

I've been trying to eliminate the "white halo" around a tattoo design using the methods Robin Sojourner described for making masks in her 2-part tutorial:
How to Make an Alpha Channel with no White Halo for Second Life

This method uses the Flaming Pear Solidify plug-ins.

When I follow the steps (make the mask, deselect things, run the Solidify B plug-in) the item that is my tattoo grows and fills the frame.

What am I doing wrong? :confused:

And, a bonus question ... does text have to be rasterized for it to look good upon upload to SL? Some of my tattoo component parts are text that just don't seem clear enough when displayed on my body.

Thank You.

Dakota Schwade
Sylvia Trilling
Flying Tribe
Join date: 2 Oct 2006
Posts: 1,117
01-10-2008 21:42
You need to create your alpha channel before running the solidify filter. Here is how I do it: use magic wand to select transparent areas. Invert the selection. Feather the selection by one pixel. This makes the edge not too jagged and not too blurry. Go into channels window. There will likely be a button that makes the alpha channel from your selection, but this depends on what version of photoshop you have. Create your alpha channel. Now go back into layers and run your solidify B. It will fill out your tatoo but you won't see most of that on the sl texture because your alpha channel transparency will cut it out.
_____________________
http://www.throughlinedesign.com/
Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
01-11-2008 00:32
Hi people!

There seems to be some misunderstanding here.

First off, the Alpha Channel (not layer; it has nothing to do with a layer at all) is found in the Channels palette.

I have recently realized that some people think that the little black and white image that may be seen next to the thumbnail on the Layers palette is an Alpha.

It's not. It's a Layer Mask. They are two totally different things. Layer masks control transparency in Photoshop, but not in Second Life. SL will never, ever, read the Layer Mask to derive transparency for the image.

It doesn't matter what you do or don't see in the Layers palette, because the Alpha Channel is totally independent of the layers.

My tutorial assumes that you have built your image from scratch, working on transparent layers. But that is not the only way to work; there are dozens of ways to build up your texture. I can't know which one you are using.

As an example, say you wanted to have a picture of a rose, used as a tattoo, in SL.

You could open PS, choose a Brush, and paint your rose on a transparent layer. Or you could take a photograph of that rose tattoo you have, and remove everything but the rose.

The techniques are very different, and will have different results. In the second case, you have to do extra things to eliminate all vestige of your skin. I didn't mention them in my tutorial, but if you have any non-image colors in the Solidify "rainbow" you'll need to Undo the filter, remove them, and run it again.

I used the easy case, where there is nothing to begin with but the colors you want.

If that's what you have, then these steps will always get you a perfect "cut out" with no white borders.

1. Make a copy of the file. Always keep the Layered PS file. Among other things, it can prove authorship if your work is stolen, and you need to file a DMCA or something.

2. On the copy, Merge the Visible Layers. You should now have an image with the Checkerboard showing below it. If it's on white, you didn't Merge Visible, you Flattened. They aren't the same thing. Put L$20 in the pot in the middle of the board, and try again.

3. Hold down Command/Ctrl and click the thumbnail of your image in the Layers palette to select the filled pixels. You should have "crawling ants" around any part of your image that is more than 50% opaque.

4. Go to Select > Save Selection, and accept the defaults. This steps saves the selection as an Alpha Channel, in the Channels palette. That's why you're asked if you want to save it as a new *Channel*. You can go look in the Channels Palette to make sure it's there, if you want. Any part that was selected will look white, anything that wasn't will look black. Now that your Alpha *channel* is made, it doesn't matter what else you do to the image. The transparency is now fixed.

5. Drop the selection. You want to run the Flaming Pear filter on the whole thing, not just the selected part of your image. If you don't drop the selection, you'll have a white halo in SL. Put another L$20 in the pot, and try again.

6. Run the Flaming Pear filter. Your image should show a totally solid rainbow streaking out from your original design. NOTE: YOU CANNOT SEE THE TRANSPARENCY IN PS. But it's there, safely tucked away in the Alpha Channel.

7. Save the image as a 32 bit targa (.tga) file. That's 8 bits for each CHANNEL. Red, Blue, Green, and Alpha. 8x4=32. If there wasn't an Alpha channel, you would only need 24 bits, because 8X3=24.

8. Upload to SL. Look at your image in the Preview window, before you spend your L$10. You can use the very same keyboard shortcuts to zoom in on it that you do in SL. See the checkerboard? Good! Then your image is what it's supposed to be. Collect all the money from the Pot, and proceed with the upload.

Really, people, this is very simple.

I think that you're confusing yourselves by not understanding that Channels and Layers are two totally different things that operate independently. And the reason you're not, I'm guessing, is that you've never really played with the Channels palette, and don't fully grasp what a Channel is.

So try this; split the Channels palette off from the Layers palette, so you can see them both at the same time. Now, as you make layers visible and invisible, watch what happens.

You'll find that no matter how many layers you make, you're still seeing only the RGB (which is a combination of the three channels directly below it,) the Red, Green, Blue and any Alpha you might have.

The number doesn't change. But what you see in the thumbnails does.

The RGB will always show your entire image, just the way you see it on your screen. That's because it's a combination of the brightness in the Red, Blue and Green channels. Essentially, those three channels are telling your computer how much of each of the three primary colors of light (Red, Blue, and Green) to pump into each pixel of your image.

Now, go to your Photoshop Preferences General pane, and uncheck Show Channels in Color, if it's checked. You'll see that the thumbnails in the Channels palette now show as black and white images. White is where a pixel is pumped up to 255 (as high as the eight bits can go. It's all a scale of 0-255, for 256 possible levels of each primary color of light.) Black is where there is none of that color. And all the gray shades, of course, are where the levels of the color are in between.

You might already be familiar with this, if you are used to choosing RGB colors as, say, R 216, G 154, B 123. Now you can see it, in levels of gray, in the palette.

If you click on the name of any of the channels, you'll see just that channel in your main "picture" window. It will look like a black and white image, and will probably surprise you with the values it's showing.

Click the eyeball next to any two channels to turn them both on, and you'll get a very oddly colored image that uses the data from those two, but ignores the third channel. You'll find that white things look yellow with just Red and Green, cyan with just Green and Blue, and magenta with just Red and Blue. That's the secondary colors of Light, in action.

When you've played with that long enough to familiarize yourself, add an alpha channel, using the method described above.

You'll notice that it pops into existence as soon as you Save Selection. You can click on its name to see it in isolation (start from full color, or RGB, not from a two color combination to do this.) You can combine it with any of the others, or all of the others. It'll show as a red tint, like an ancient rubylith, if that means anything to you. :D

But that's the only way that you can directly see your Alpha. Why, I hear you asking, doesn't PS just show it as transparent?

Because that's not all that an alpha can be used for. You can use them to save selections, to make complex selections, to hold information about spot colors, and all kinds of things. SL interprets them as transparency, but that's not their sole purpose. So it would be very confusing to show them as transparency for everyone who is using them for something else.

Okay, when you've done all this, you'll know that a Channel is a Channel, and a Layer is a Layer, and they aren't the same thing at all.

Hopefully, that will totally demystify the whole "Alpha Channel" thing, and you'll realize it's just another channel. But instead of driving one of the primary colors of light, it drives the transparency in SL. Other than that, though, it works exactly the same way.

White is pumping the pixel to full opacity. Black is leaving it totally empty, or clear. And the 254 shades of gray are putting one of the 254 possible levels of partial opacity into that particular pixel of the image.

Hope this helps!
_____________________
Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Dakota Schwade
Forty Two
Join date: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 10
Flaming Pear & Tattoo Problem
01-11-2008 10:10
Hello All... Especially Robin! :)

Thank you for the guidance.

The understanding of Alpha channels was not my particular problem on this go around with Photoshop and SL.

It was step 6 that baffled me. The part where running the Flaming Pear Solidify B plug-in results in a "totally solid rainbow streaking out from your original design." I did not know that was the expected result from the plug-in, and that's where I stopped. This detail is not mentioned in Robin's tutorial (not that I could find, anyway). Now I (and everyone else) knows better! ;)

So ... about those text layers ... they need to be rasterized before the Solidify B plug-in would have any effect on them, right? I experimented with that and the results just don't seem to be sharp enough for my tastes. Is there some technicality here I don't understand about type and tattoos? :confused:

Thank you.
Robin Sojourner
Registered User
Join date: 16 Sep 2004
Posts: 1,080
01-11-2008 11:22
Hi Dakota!

Ummm.. the tutorial actually says "Your image will now be opaque, with the colors that go from edge to edge, and are as rich and saturated as they would be if you'd never made any of it transparent." That's right above the picture that shows the wing with the solid background. :D

It's hard not to panic when a tutorial doesn't do what you expect; but try to just keep plugging along through it, following the steps, to the very end anyway. Sometimes, I've found, one part will only make sense when you know about another part that comes along farther down the line.

Remember; the White Halo is caused when semi-transparent pixels, such as anti-aliased edges, are flattened onto a transparent ground. So yeah, the transparency *must* be eliminated in order to eliminate the White Halo.

About the type; you don't have to rasterize it as a separate step. It will be rasterized automatically when you Merge Visible. However, if you're using Type, or any other Vector artwork (Shapes or Vector Masks) you might want to Resize before you Merge Visible, so you're resizing Vector, not Raster, work. This will take a little longer, depending on the complexity of your artwork. But it will be worth the wait. :D

If it's still not sharp enough for you, try playing with the aa levels, found in the Options Bar when you are using the Type Tool (in PS CSn) or wherever your Options are (in earlier versions.) You can choose None, Sharp, Crisp, Strong, or Smooth from the drop down menu there.

Bear in mind, though, that a really sharp tattoo won't look as realistic as a slightly blurry one. When ink is injected subcutaneously, it spreads out a bit, after all. Only very new tattoos are really sharp, and they tend to be red around the edges. :D

Hope this helps!
_____________________
Robin (Sojourner) Wood
www.robinwood.com

"Second Life ... is an Internet-based virtual world ... and a libertarian anarchy..." Wikipedia
Dakota Schwade
Forty Two
Join date: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 10
Flaming Pear & Tattoo Problem
01-11-2008 16:24
Hi Robin...

Yes, the explanation of what the Solidify B filter would do was there all along ... I just didn't know enough to understand what you were trying to tell me in the tutorial. :o

What can I say? I know, I'll use age as an excuse ... I'm only 31 days old! :)

Thanks!