Any Tutorial in prim skirts?

I seen the prim cute short skirts. Sometimes seems easy, sometimes difficult when you start trying. Is there any easier way?

I'd love to have a tutorial on that, and even a class in world, especially with the new flex prims around, but I haven't seen that there are any. I'm sure I'm not alone on this, lots of aspiring designers would like some help with prims. I've tried to learn the hard way.. trial and most of all, error... And have had some funny, but mostly frustrating times with prims ending up on the weirdest places.I've also found serious limitations to their use, or maybe it is because of my inability to properly use them?..lol. The use of prim AOs is also something I'd like to know more about. If someone knows about classes or tutorials on prim skirts, could you, please, post them?

Mia

I have some of the new short flexi prim ones (cute) - but still (as usual) always search for the up over the knee lenght ones.. Tutorial - and a nice template -- would be lovely to get,.,,

/Tina

I am SL's worst designer. I have scads of failed attempts stuffed into my inventory, for everything from sheer lingerie to cashmere outfits. I have adopted a hate-relationship with the avatar UV map for everything from arm sides that won't match exactly to only having ONE arm. I hate the clavicle mapping and my attempts at skins have failed utterly.

Whew. Had to get that off my chest But I wanted to preface this: the one thing that I discovered isn't too hard is making my own prim skirts. Here's how I do it:

1. You need a pose stand. Take off your AO and pose on it.
2. Rez a cone, or if you prefer a cylinder -- you can narrow the top of the cylinder quite a bit but I find cones just easier to work with. Narrow-top cones work best for those ruffle skirts you see on Salsa outfits.
3. Hollow the cone to 95%.
4. Cut it to 50%, so you have half a cone.
5. Drag it up to your avatar's waist and resize it the way you want. Some prim skirts have the top point of the cone all the way inside the avatar, which works, but I generally just squeeze it down to where it sits on my hip the way I want. Be sure it's wide enough that it will overlap its neighboring cones.
6. If you know what texture you want to use, apply. You can wait til you have all your cones built if you prefer. Some textures (like plaid) can give you a gauge to help you with prim placement. Generally you want the horizontal/vertical repeats on your texture at 1.0 each.
7. Copy-drag (Shift+click) the cone half the width of the base. You're going to be trying to form an oval around your waist using these cones. Try to make the distance between the bases roughly equal. This is where the width of the base is important - a wider base gives you fewer prims but you might not get the pleated look you want. Again, personal taste.
8. Repeat 7 until you have your cone prims copied and positioned all the way around your waist.
9. Select all the cones and link (CTRL+L).
10. There are several ways to add a finishing touch here. I've tried creating a belt (a very short cylinder sized for the top of the prim cones) and I've tried making shorts with the same texture as the skirt. That probably works the best, but most of my outfits lately have used a short under-skirt with the same texture. If you're modest and want to avoid the bubble-butt problem with skirts, go for the shorts. If you hate the speedo look of the shorts and want to show off that fancy underwear you made, opt for the skirt
11. Hop off the pose stand. Take the assembled skirt into inventory. It will be named "Object" so rename it how you like. Now select it, "Attach to" and attach to your point of preference. I usually go with pelvis, which gives it that swing when you walk. Attaching to spine or hip might get different results.
12. Get back on the pose stand. Now edit the assembled skirt and position it on your avatar as you like.
13. Set permissions for the next owner, and you're done.

If you want to make your prims flex'd, that's a whole new ballgame. Flex-prims become floppy at the top, right where you want the prim to be solid and line up correctly. If anyone has additional tips on flex skirts, please speak up

It's not a hard process, but it does take patience, adeptness with the camera and an eye for size/dimension.

I've tried making a skirt using a flexi-cone, but the attach point seems to be at the base of the cone, making the point wiggle around instad of the bottom. Does anyone have an idea of how to move the attach point?

That's my question too, Jaquelynne. I'm thinking this is where a flex cylinder might work better, but you're still faced with the top being the floppy part (that's the default setting for flex prims). Perhaps building it upside down, then inverting it after it's all linked?

The problem here is that prim only flops from it's "base."

Before 1.10.whatever, if you tapered a cone it only went in at the top. If you look closely, you can see that they have changed it so that it now works both ways.

If you take a regular skirt and make it flexi, you then have to reverse the taper and flip the skirt (and the texture if any) upside down.

You'll need to work with the cylindar, and use the taper feature to make it a cone-shape. Flip the cylindar over 180 degrees on the x before you start, then do all of your adjustments backwards (move the taper into the negative) to shrink the new 'top' of the prim.

This does mean that you can't just make any previous skirts flexi, but it is easy to recreate most of them (at least if they were just cones) with the prims rotated 180 degrees on the x.

For the original poster, check the events listing for class schedules to see if there are any current classes offering this. If not, stay tuned. I'm working with a project for fashion education in world. We hope to have the education center up and running with basic tutorials and info and our first classes by the end of the month.

Thank you PetGirl. What a nice tutorial. Thank you also, to the others who added to the tutorial.

Jen

Not sure how much help I might ad, but I use one large cone and put it around the waiste were I wanted it and then added the smaller cones around that, of course for the flexy the cones need to be reversed otherwise it won't move right. After all done with that, I removed the large cone as its not needed.
Then for the right amount of flexiness you'll need to mess around with all of the numbers. If they aren't right, the skirt will not move right and look separated when you walk or fly.
I made two of them this weekend, one was a double ruffle and they turned out really great and look so realistic when you move. I was so excited.

I love PetGirl, don't get me wrong, but I'm not PetGirl

OK if you guys want a cute above the knee flexi prim mini...
IM me DIGIT DARKES. They came out great actually better than expected.
I also can give you guys a mini tutorial if ya like.

Thank you Cindy!!! /worship

And thank you others for info on flexi prims too And Adri, you're my hero for organising a class. Thank you!

Mia